Mission Codename High on gold
“Smith sources from hillside sites in Monterey that seem especially well suited to a style that favors savory complexity and energy… I was impressed.” – Vinous
So were we, Mr. Galloni! SO WERE WE! 96 Points from Jeb, for UNDER $30?!
Pinot-loving Ops who trusted in Phone Booths, Tolosas, Lussiers, Exprimeres and begged for more of each…trust your Agents of Wine. This is the next MUST HAVE in the lineup. But there’s so little to start with, we can’t promise more.
We honestly did not know much about this hidden gem.
Then we read his bio. Margerum and Morgan. Both institutions down south, and even a short stint at either is highly regarded on any winemaking resume, let alone at BOTH. And it wasn’t short. He stayed for over a dozen harvests.
All that experience aside, the source must play a key role here, too.
Montañita de Oro means “Little Mountain of Gold” in Spanish, and that’s exactly what Monterey offers. This ethereal beauty is essentially a trifecta mélange of some truly special high-elevation sites. Primarily from the Pelio Vineyard perched atop Carmel Valley at 1,000 feet. Next is the Michaud Vineyard portion, which is from by far the most heralded Pinot Noir terroir in the Chalone appellation, taking the altitude to over 1,500 feet. Finally, some Double L Vineyard too in there, the certified organic estate for Morgan, in the heart of the Santa Lucia Highlands. The resulting wine is layered, with pretty floral and fruit notes, underlying fresh acidity, fine, silky tannins, and a hauntingly seamless, gorgeous long finish. Just wow…
Lest we forget, the most impressive feat here is the 12.5% alcohol, which is quite hard to attain when the fruit is this forward and intense. Like if Miles were to film a Sideways sequel, a Pinot by Sam should be the official wine: “…only the most patient and nurturing of growers can do it, really. Only somebody who really takes the time to understand Pinot’s potential can then coax it into its fullest expression.”
Vinous explains, “Smith’s day job is at Morgan, where, alongside founder Dan Lee, he oversees the annual production… Here, at his personal project, things are quite a bit different. These wines are made in minuscule quantities, up to 250 cases of a given wine. They are also incredibly well-priced, especially considering their quality, which is in the upper tier of the region. Readers who are looking for unadorned Pinot Noir really need to check these out.”
Like REALLY. Incredibly well-priced based on the release number. Finding a Pinot of this caliber under $30 puts this in extreme QPR territory. Maybe the best of the year? Stock up!
96 Points – Jeb Dunnuck “Smith spent eight years winemaking at Morgan and has also worked at Margerum in Santa Barbara as well as abroad at François Villard in the northern Rhône. He does his own paintings on the label and focuses on organically farmed mountainous terroir, primarily in Santa Cruz, the Santa Lucia Highlands, and other parts of Monterey. A cuvée of three sites (40% Pelio, 34% Michaud, and 26% Double L), the 2023 Pinot Noir Montañita de Oro displays a rocky, creamy, velvety texture and tremendous red fruit, while retaining aromatics of rose and dried herb. The grapes were 60% whole-cluster fermented, contributing impressive texture and a highly enjoyable, complex experience of elegance and light-bodied intensity.”
What the Winery Says
2023 'Montañita de Oro' Pinot Noir
- Winemaker
- Samuel L. Smith
- Varietal
- 100% Pinot Noir
- Vintage
- 2023
- Alcohol
- 12.5%
- Appellation
- Monterey County, Central Coast
- Vineyards
- Pelio, Michaud, and Double L Vineyards
- Fermentation
- 60% Whole cluster
- Aging
- 9 months
- Barrels
- 11% new French oak
About the Winery
Samuel Louis Smith